Now that it’s summer, you might be craving some sweet and refreshing Kyoto shaved ice. Although it’s popular all over Japan, this dessert has some unique qualities that make it stand out from other icy treats. For instance, the syrups and toppings are more creative than those you might find in a snow cone or a raspado in other countries. Also, it’s traditionally served in a glass bowl, which adds to the sweetness and elegance of this dish. You’ll want to get it while you can, since it’s only available until September.
Despite its low-brow reputation as a staple at convenience stores and festival night stands, kakigori has its roots in the Heian period. It was an extravagant treat served to the imperial court during the sweltering summer. The ice was carefully preserved by digging large holes in the shadowy mountain areas and covered with thatch or other materials to keep it cold for long periods of time. The shaved ice was then topped with fruit, mochi, ice cream, or other items, making it a perfect way to cool down in the hot Kyoto weather.
Today, kakigori is available nationwide at shops that specialize in it and at many summer festivals (matsuri). You can also find it at restaurants with white and blue flags that have the character for “bing” (ice) in red. Some even serve it year round, including in the winter! Some kakigori places have a specific name for their speciality, such as Azuki to Kouri, which offers shaved ice topped with everything from azuki beans to meringue. Others offer seasonal flavors like kurokuma (dark brown unrefined sugar syrup), coffee, or mango.
In fact, there are so many variations of kakigori that there’s a website where you can test your knowledge! (It’s in Japanese, but if you have some familiarity with Japanese, it should be fairly easy.) There are also numerous books and magazines on the subject, and it seems as if many people have a passion for this dessert.
There are several popular kakigori 京都 かき氷 spots in Kyoto. Here are just a few you should try:
Bun no Sukechaya
Located in the quaint and traditional Gion district, this store is known for its amazake (sweet drink made from fermented rice) and warabimochi (sticky rice balls). They’re famous for their Inakagori (countryside ice), which is topped with roughly shaved ice mixed with roasted soy bean flour syrup. This flavor is quite intense and is great for those who enjoy the taste of roasted soy beans.
The shop is currently preparing for the fall season, but their kakigori will be available until the end of September. Their menu changes frequently so be sure to check it out! The shop is a short walk from Hankyu Sakasegawa Station.
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